Saturday, January 25, 2020

8 Nights in New Zealand


I already want to go back. New Zealand really is a special place. A magical "other world". Traveling here with kids is SO WORTH the journey.


A boy and his plane.

10-hour flight with a morning arrival. (Our toddler slept 2 hours of it.) A dip in the pool. A little diaper issue. Time to lounge.

Please, room be ready! We are desperate to lay down!

DAY 1 - AUCKLAND

We stayed at the historic Heritage Hotel, walking distance to the harbor. Having done my jetlag-ready-research, we knew just what to do. We napped for 3 glorious hours, then up and at 'em to get some fresh air. This was a day devoted to recovery. The only rule? No cars. We needed our feet on the ground.



Victoria Park


Our vegetarian-oldest begins the challenge of eating meat-free in the land of all-things-meat. Go Ainsley!


DAY 2 - MATAMATA (2 hours south)

A highlight of our trip - the journey into 'Middle Earth'. Home of the Hobbiton Movie Set and Peter Jackson's dreams-made-real. The Shire is far bigger than I ever imagined! A delightful 3-hours spent here poking around all of the hobbit homes with our tour guide, ending in a pint at the Green Dragon. If you go with a little one, be sure to bring your carrier (and sunscreen).


I get tingles remembering this moment -- as we were ushered beyond idyllic hills scattered with lazing sheep...  music from The Hobbit and Peter Jackson's personal welcome filling our ears.









 


Yes, you're part of a tour group and stay more-or-less in step. However, there are plenty of opportunities to play and enjoy the space, to snap photos where you please, and take it all in.






















We decided to stay in Matamata at a couple's home-converted-B&B and I'm so happy we did. This place, Highllynn Bed and Breakfast, far surpasses its marketing material. Incredibly kind hosts (once farmers) living the dream in this gorgeous countryside. We were grateful for the easy hospitality and good conversation. Pauleen makes her own soaps and delicious breakfast. Robert put out an American flag on our behalf and even set up his telescope for us once the (billions of) stars came out.




The township of Matamata proved great fun as well! Good old-fashioned shops, candy stores, and a yummy restaurant.


DAY 3 - FLY TO CHRISTCHURCH, South New Zealand



My dear friend surprised us at the airport! With six kids between us now, it was as if not a day had passed since our youth. Some friends are like that. Precious few. We dropped our things at the rental house and zoomed to her place in the county for a relaxed BBQ (looking at you, lamb!) and some much needed R&R. With sunset not till 9pm, each day stretches out happily.


Katie's backyard
DAYS 4 & 5 - CHRISTCHURCH

The wreckage of Christchurch Cathedral stands in limbo - to be saved or torn down? Surrounded by a black wall adorned with colorful art, an emblem of the people's love for their city and their positive hope for a bright future, whatever that might be.

As you may know, Christchurch was hit with a terrible and destructive earthquake in 2011. The city was completely destroyed. Many lost their lives, their homes, their livelihoods. Now, 8 years later, the city is deep in the rebuilding and recovery phase. What a compelling time to visit! Old and new mingling and creating an altogether new vibe. Hope and faith felt in the very air.










Street Art everywhere! Artists both local and from around the globe began covering this city anew with full hearts. The art speaks of native Maori people, of sense of place, of roots, of change, of growth...


Our families had the best time together! The kids were pretty tickled to get their very own private booth at lunch one day... (shout out to the waitress who kept them happy for over an hour!)


And every tree open for climbing!! (say, what!?) TREES. Climbing. Have at it, kids.




 The playgrounds...


Willowbank Wildlife Reserve- one of the coolest places I have ever been to. EVER. We spent well over two hours here. So many animals to see, to feed, to learn about. Places to play. They sell animal feed at the entrance. You can even feed wild eels! (No thanks - go ahead, brave kids.)



Ainsley and her favorite animal - PIGS. Happy girl.


Living the Dream. Right here.
The dairy in NZ stands out. Even the little boxed milks taste incredible! Must be something in the way they farm or process. Could it just be that those cows are so happy in those gorgeous fields?!
Alex: "Mmmmm! Gooood mooney! Nice mooney."

another bed, another sleep - he did well with the musical beds, I have to say!

We went punting on the Avon River, too. A calm, peaceful float.

Then, in a blink, it was time to say good-bye.


Load up on gas-station donuts, first!! Get ready for a drive.

DAY 6 - OAMARU

Ohhhhh, Oamaru!! This tiny coastal town immediately found a place in my heart. I absolutely fell in love with this quirky, funky, artsy haven in the 20 hours we spent here.


cool little cafe we stumbled on with a surprise play area and vintage shop








This is also home to the blue penguins (those tiny "fairy penguins"). Oamaru maintains a protected reserve and education center where we spotted a few mothers nesting. The penguins swim all day and at sunset (9pm this time of year), the penguins clamber over the big rocks through the surf and race to their beds for sleep. One of them lost the group & ran out into the road as we pulled out! We stopped to block traffic and it scurried right under our car!



the little wood houses are built by local school children

Little Blue is all the way on the right! So small!! So CUTE!




poser


see them!?? Those little guys running past the viewing platform?



a night to remember xxx

But the *BEST* thing about Oamaru? OUR RENTAL HOUSE. So dreamy. Seriously, this house spoke to me. To my soul. Like a distant friend.


DAY 7 - LAKE WANAKA to CROMWELL

We drove through Kurow (great roadside cafe!) to Lake Wanaka for lunch and playtime. I was driving, and Jasper had to keep telling me to stop looking at the views and concentrate on the winding roads and crazy passing drivers. At least left-side driving in HK prepared us for that part!



 
ROAD TRIP!






40 minutes south we found ourselves in a stunning haven. Imagine rolling hills layered in vineyards, bubbling rivers, grazing sheep and cattle, ponds with ducks. Just when I couldn't stand it anymore, it was so gorgeous, we discovered our cabin. We could've happily spent several days here (despite the girls hiding from bees). To be honest, I would have left the lake hours earlier to enjoy this peaceful nook had I truly understood what awaited us.



The freshness of the air. The quiet-beyond-quiet. The billions of stars visible at night (what a sight!). 




Lavender Cottage

DAY 8 - QUEENSTOWN

The crown on the top of the 8-night trip. Queenstown. I know people don't go to NZ for the cities, but this city (town, more like) has such a unique vibe and tremendous beauty. We loved it.

view from our hotel window
The first thing on the list? Catch a ride aboard the historic TSS Earnslaw steamboat to a sheep farm. Winner for the kids and parents!


Our toddler who loves all things that go - was every bit into this boat as we had hoped!







This piano playing grandma was FANTASTIC! She played all the old-time hits on the way back and everyone sitting near had a pint and sang along. "Bicycle Built for Two" and the like. So much fun!
 
There was a walkway in the open engine room - where you could watch all the things moving, turning, cranking... and see the staff shovel coal into the hot furnace. Alex gawked in here forever!




We loved our tour of the sheep farm! We learned all about sheep shearing and sheep-dogs, and we fed a few of the other animals.



For the rest of the afternoon, we just walked around. Found a wonderful playground by the lake with an enormous climbing tree and rope swing. We declined the long line at Fergburger, instead opting for a family friendly Italian spot on the harbor.




Only Addie! Only Addie would be invited to join the didgeridoo player in a street performance. And play they did!



All too soon - it was time to pack up and fly home. 14 hours back to Hong Kong, but a world away.